Calcutta's
airport
, 20km north of the city centre, is served by international flights - although only a small proportion of visitors actually enter India here - as well as services from throughout the country. Officially "Netaji Subhash Bose International Airport", it is still universally known by its old name of
Dum Dum
- a name that became infamous during the Boer War, when the notorious (and now banned) exploding bullet was manufactured in a nearby factory. The dreary
international terminal
has moneychanging facilities, a
prepaid taxi booth
and a Government of India tourist information counter but little else. In complete contrast, the modern
domestic terminal
, 500m to the south, has a much better range of amenities including an accommodation booking counter, tourist information, restaurants, bookshops, a railway reservation desk and a prepaid taxi booth. Booked here, a
taxi
to the central Sudder Street area costs around Rs130. Alternatively, an airport
bus
travels down Chowringhee (officially renamed Jawaharlal Nehru Road) to the Indian Airlines office and passes the western end of Sudder Street.
Minibuses
run to BBD Bagh, but these can get crowded and prove to be an unwelcome introduction to the city. Another possibility is to take a taxi to the end of the
Metro
at Dum Dum, 6km away, and then take the underground line (Rs5) to Park Street, the nearest station to Sudder Street. Fairlie Place station on the railway is good for BBD Bagh.
Of Calcutta's two main
railway stations
, neither of which is on the Metro system,
Howrah Station
- the point of arrival for major trains from the south and west, such as the Rajdhani Express from Delhi - stands on the far bank of the Hooghly a couple of kilometres west of the centre. To reach the central downtown area, traffic has to negotiate
Howrah Bridge
- the definitive introduction to the chaos of the city, especially during rush hours, which start late in the mornings. Long queues form at Howrah's
taxi rank
outside the station building, when main trains pull in. Avoid touts and taxis who break the rank and invariably ask astronomical prices to avoid using the meter - and head straight for the prepaid taxi booth; a prepaid taxi to Sudder Street costs Rs43.
Minibuses
and
buses
(#S5, #S6, #S7 and #41A) also operate from Howrah, but tend to be very crowded. The best alternative is to follow the signs from the station gate and take a
ferry
ride (Rs3) across the Hooghly with great views of the bridge, to Babu Ghat or the adjacent Chandpal Ghat, close to BBD Bagh, and pick up a metered taxi, bus or minibus from there.
Sealdah Station
, used by trains from the north, is on the eastern edge of the centre, and much more convenient as you don't have to get across the river. There is a convenient
prepaid taxi booth
in the car park. Long-distance
buses
from the south terminate at
Babu Ghat Bus Stand
, not far from Fort William on the east bank, while some luxury buses, such as the
Rocket
from Darjeeling, arrive at
Esplanade Bus Stand
, less than 1km north of Sudder Street.