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Most of Calcutta's Hindu festivals are devoted to forms of the mother goddess, Shakti . As one of the last centres of north Indian Buddhism, Bengal reflects a unique blend of traditions; Tantric Hinduism, closely related to Vajrayana Buddhism, continues to be evident in the devotion to mysterious deities such as Tara . Calcutta's own deity, the black goddess Kali , is an emanation of Durga , the consort of Shiva. Kali is depicted with four arms, standing on the prostrate Shiva after killing the demon Raktviya.

The two-week Durga Puja (Sept/Oct) is the most lavish festival of all. A symbol of victory, Durga , wife of Shiva, is shown with ten arms slaying the demon Mahisasura, who assumed the shape of a buffalo and threatened the gods. Durga either sits on a lion, or is accompanied by one. Other pujas honour Lakshmi , the goddess of wealth, whose festival falls in autumn, and Saraswati , the goddess of the arts and learning, who is shown as a beautiful fair woman sitting on a lotus playing a sitar-like instrument known as the veena .

During the festivals, images of straw, papier-mâché, or sola pith , originally moulded as voluptuous women with large rounded breasts and physical detail, then clothed and decorated, are carried in noisy procession to makeshift altars called pandals . Supported by donations from businesses and local residents, pandals often block off small streets and blare popular music through distorting loudspeakers. Competition between pandals can lead to street fights, when the image is taken for immersion to the river after puja.

Joydeb Mela (early Jan) Commemorating Joydeb, the author of the Gita Govinda revered by Bauls, and held in the village of Kenduli near Shantiniketan; the place to hear Baul minstrels in their element.

Ganga Sagar Mela (mid-Jan) During the winter solstice of Makar Sankranti, hundreds of thousands of Hindu pilgrims travel through Calcutta for a three-day festival at Sagar Dwip, 150km south at the mouth of the Hooghly where the Ganges meets the sea. Many of the sadhus drawn to the mela stay at the Shiva temple at Nimtolla Ghat, north of Howrah Bridge.

Saraswati Puja (Jan/Feb) Important pandal festival to the goddess of learning, celebrated throughout the city.

Chinese New Year (Jan/Feb) Celebrated with a week-long festival of dragon dances, firecrackers and fine food, concentrated around the suburb of Tangra.

Shivratri (late Feb) The nationwide Shiva festival is celebrated all over the city.

Bakrid (Feb/March) Large parts of the Maidan are converted into a gigantic prayer ground when thousands of Muslims pray at the end of Ramadan.

Dol Purnima or Holi (Feb/March) The spring festival, when anyone foolhardy enough to go out is liable to be splashed and powdered in bright colours, is especially popular with Calcutta's Biharis.

Muharram (May/June) Shi'ite Muslims mark the anniversary of the martyrdom of Hussein by severe penance including processions during which they flagellate themselves.

Vishvakarma Puja (Sept) Dedicated to the god of creation; craftsmen and artists decorate their tools with images of the deity.

Durga Puja (Sept/Oct) At the onset of winter, Durga Puja is the Bengali equivalent of Christmas. It climaxes on Mahadashami, the tenth day, when images are taken to the river for immersion. Elsewhere, the festival is known as Dussehra.

Lakshmi Puja (Oct/Nov) Held five days after Mahadashami on the full moon, to honour the goddess of wealth.

Diwali & Kali Puja (Oct/Nov) Two weeks after Lakshmi Puja, Kali Puja is held on a moonless night when goats are sacrificed. Kali Puja coincides with Diwali, the festival of light.

Christmas (Dec 25) Park Street and the New Market are adorned with fairy lights and the odd Christmas tree. Plum pudding is sold at confectioners, and Midnight Mass is well attended.

Posh Mela (late Dec) Held in Shantiniketan just after Christmas, the mela attracts Bauls, the wandering minstrels who perform to large audiences (too large for some tastes).