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Seven miles northwest of downtown, the Indianapolis Motor Speedway stages only two events per year; but one does happen to be the legendary Indianapolis 500 (the other is the prestigious NASCAR Brickyard 400 in August).

Held on the last Sunday in May, the Indy 500 is preceded by two weeks of quali fication runs that whittle the hopeful entrants down to a final field of 33 drivers, one of whom will scoop the million-dollar first prize. The two-and-a-half-mile circuit was built as a test track for the city's motor manufacturers. The first 500-mile race held in 1911 - won in a time of 6hr 42min, at an average speed of 74.6mph - was a huge success, vindicating the organizers' belief that the distance was the optimum length for spectators' enjoyment. Cars now hit 225mph, though the official times of the winners are reduced by delays caused by accidents. The automotive technology is marvelous, but the living legends in the eyes of their fans are such championship drivers as A.J. Foyt, Mario Andretti and members of the Unser dynasty.

The big race crowns one of the nation's largest festivals, watched by up to 450,000. At first, the city's conservative hierarchy saw it as an infringement on the traditional observance of Memorial Day weekend. However, it brings so much money into the city, with thousands of "Indy" racing fanatics staying for up to two weeks, that it is now exploited to the full, with civic events such as the crowning of the Speedway Queen, a Mayor's Ball and a street parade. Seats for the race usually sell out well in advance, but you may gain admittance to the infield, where the giddy and boozy atmosphere makes up for the poor view.

Adjoining the track, the impressive display of race-car history at the Indianapolis Motor Speedway Hall of Fame Museum , 4790 W 16th St, provides a good background to the hysteria (daily 9am-5pm; $3; ). For an extra two dollars, a rickety old bus saunters around the super-smooth asphalt track (only a small patch of bricks remains), ringed by huge banked grandstands. The circuit also holds four of the eighteen holes of the unique Brickyard Crossing golf course (tel 317/484-6572; , home to the annual Senior PGA Tournament; green fees are $90.