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The Rodoviária (tel 067/383-1678) is a ten-minute walk west of the central Praça Ari Coelho at Rua Joaquim Nabuco 200. A surprisingly large bus terminal, it also houses six hairdressers, a cinema, bookstores and several bars. A word of warning , however: the Rodoviária is known for its unsavoury types, and though you should have no problems during the day the area is best avoided at night unless you're confident of yourself and haven't much to lose. (Similarly, the district south of Avenida Afonso Pena is also acquiring a dodgy reputation.) If in doubt, take a taxi : there's a rank in the bus station, or phone Rádio Táxi on tel 067/787-1414. The other point of arrival is the airport , Aeroporto Internacional Antônio João (tel 067/763-2444), 7km out of town on the road towards Aquidauana. Buses from the airport to the Rodoviária cost around 80¢, taxis $5.

Tourist information is readily available at the very helpful, privately run Morada dos Bais tourist office (Tues-Sat 9am-8pm; tel 067/724-5830), at Av. Noroeste 5140 on the corner with Avenida Afonso Pena; alternatively, check out the Web site www.guiacidade.com.br or call 067/751-9900, a free English-speaking tourist helpline operated by SEBRAE.