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Fukuoka's most notorious speciality food is fugu , the poisonous blow-fish eaten only in winter (Nov-March); though you'll find fugu throughout Japan, the best is said to come from this region. Cheaper food is on offer at the city's mobile street-kitchens, yatai , the plastic sheets cocooning a steamy, pungent world where you squeeze in at the counter for hearty bowls of ramen, or, less traditionally, oden and tempura, accompanied by flasks of sake. A typical stall charges roughly ¥500 for ramen, though some are going more upmarket. Yatai can be found around the intersection of Tenjin Nishi-dori and Showa-dori, and along the southwest bank of Nakasu island. Tenjin is also a good bet for more traditional restaurants, particularly the blocks west and north of Tenjin Station. Sun Plaza, under the west side of Hakata Station, has a host of mostly downmarket eating houses, while the station itself is a cheap place to try out karashi mentaiko , the spicy fish eggs for which north Kyushu is famed; you'll find both mentaiko onigiri (rice balls) and bento at the station stalls.

Fukuoka's famous Nakasu nightlife district occupies an island in the Naka-gawa, seemingly just staying afloat under the weight of clubs, restaurants, bars and soft-porn cinemas. It's a great area to wander round, but most places are extortionately expensive and only take customers by recommendation, if they accept foreigners at all. A happier hunting ground lies around Tenjin's main crossroads, particularly Oyafuko-dori and streets immediately to the east which are packed with bars and clubs. Roughly translated, Oyafuko-dori means street of disobedient children, originally referring to a local school but nowadays more applicable to groups of college kids in various stages of inebriation who gather here at weekends under the blind eye of the koban on the corner.

As for more formal entertainment , Fukuoka is large enough to be on the circuit for pop stars, musicals and major theatre productions. The main venues are Canal City's Fukuoka City Theatre, ACROS Symphony Hall, or Fukuoka Dome for the real biggies. To find out what's on, consult the Rainbow newsletter or ask at any of the information centres; tickets are available through PIA (tel 092/708-9999). Movie fans should check the current week's showings at Japan's biggest cinema, AMC Canal City 13, on Canal City's fourth floor; cut-price seats (¥1000) are available on weekdays up to 7pm (ring tel 092/272-2222 for 24hr recorded information). Finally, jazz aficionados should check out the Blue Note club, at 2-7-6 Tenjin (tel 092/715-6666).