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There are plenty of cheap brasseries and restaurants around the station, but by far the most attractive area to look is St-Leu , both for appearance and general ambience. Two favourite places are in the pretty, cobbled place du Don directly below the cathedral, with room to sit outside in good weather. The Soupe à Cailloux serves delicious family cuisine, including regional dishes, for a reasonable price (weekday lunch menu at 72F/¬10.98, other times from 90F/¬13.72; closed Mon in winter), and is consequently very popular. The equally attractive As du Don , across the square, does a formule for 109F/¬16.62, while just over the canal is Amiens' best gourmet restaurant, Les Marissons (tel 03.22.92.96.66; closed Sat lunch & Sun; menus from 200F/¬30.49, carte from 300F/¬45.73). There are also several bars and pubs in the area.

For eating in town , one of the nicest places to go is the handsome T'chiot Zinc (closed Mon lunch & Sun; menu at 69F/¬10.52, plats for 49F/¬7.47), at 18 rue Noyon opposite the station, which serves traditional country fare. A total contrast is the hip Tex-Mex Steak-Easy , with an aeroplane hanging from the ceiling, at 18 rue Metz-l'Évêque (guacamole, spare ribs and other un-Gallic fare; around 90F/¬14 for a meal).

For one week in May Amiens bursts into life for its annual international jazz festival ; on the third weekend in June, the local costumes come out for the Fête d'Amiens ; and in November there's a cinema festival . Traditional Picardy marionettes give performances (July & Aug Tues-Sun; rest of year Wed & Sun) at the Théâtre de Chés Cabotans d'Amiens, 31 rue Edouard David: call Théâtre d'Animation Picard (tel 03.22.22.30.90) for reservations - tickets are around 55F/¬8.38. To purchase or take a look at hand-made marionettes, you should visit the workshop of Jean-Pierre Facquier at 67 rue du Don.