All sorts of specialist
restaurants
, including several ethnic alternatives, are tucked away in the old streets of Dinan. Stroll of an evening through the town and down to the port, and you'll pass at least twenty places. For
bars
, explore the series of tiny parallel alleyways between the place des Merciers and the rue de la Ferronnerie. Along rue de la Cordonnerie, the busiest of the lot, the various hang outs define themselves by their taste in music:
À la Truye qui File
at no. 14 is a sort of contemporary folky Breton dive, while
Morgan's Tavern
, next door at no. 12, is considerably more raucous.
Le Cantorbery
, 6 rue Ste-Claire (tel 02.96.39.02.52). Reasonable food served in an old stone house with rafters, a spiral staircase and a real wood fire. Lunch from 65F/¬9.91, while traditional dinner menus start with a good 125F/¬19.06 option. Closed Sun evening & Mon, plus all Feb.
Chez La Mère Pourcel
, 3 place des Merciers (tel 02.96.39.03.80). Beautiful half-timbered fifteenth-century house in the central square. The lunch menu, at 97F/¬14.79, is pretty minimal, but the dinners, starting at 168F/¬25.61, are gourmet class, featuring
agneau pré-salé
from Mont St-Michel. Closed Sun evening, plus Mon in low season, and all Feb.
Crêperie Connetable
, 1 rue de l'Apport (tel 02.96.39.02.52). Crêpes and snacks in a magnificent old house opposite the
Mère Pourcel
beside the place des Merciers. Sit if you dare at the pavement tables, where all that prevents the upper storeys from crashing down around your ears are a couple of misshapen pillars.
Le Relais des Corsaires
, 7 rue du Quai, port du Dinan (tel 02.96.39.40.17). Attractive waterfront restaurant split between a formal dining room and the less expensive all-hours "grill", the
Petit Corsaire
. Both serve much the same wide range of traditional French cuisine, on menus that start with an 89F/¬13.57 option that offers shrimp followed by mussels or cod. Closed Sun evening & Wed in low season.
Le Saint Louis
, 9-11 rue de Léhon (tel 02.96.39.89.50). Very good-value restaurant just inside the Porte St-Louis, specializing in buffets; a 79F/¬12.04 menu entitles you to choose at will from extensive buffets of
hors d'oeuvres
and desserts, while the 95F/¬14.48 option offers the same deal plus a conventional main course. Closed Sun evening & Wed.