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Since Bordeaux's dance clubs are constantly changing - places often come and go within six months - it's best to ask around for the latest hotspots. There are one or two discos in the city centre, such as Paris-Pékin , at 10 rue de la Merci (tel 05.56.44.19.88), but the majority of clubs are spread out along southerly quai du Paludate, where things don't really get going until two in the morning and continue till around four or five; Sunday is generally closing day. One of the district's longer-lived clubs is La Plage at no. 40 (tel 05.56.49.02.46), a fun disco in a tropical-beach setting, while the wonderfully Baroque Shadow Lounge , 5 rue Cabannac (tel 05.56.49.36.93), plays house and techno.

To find out the latest events and happenings in and around Bordeaux, get hold of a copy of the regional newspaper Sud-Ouest . Alternatively there are the fortnightly listings booklet Spectaculair 33 (3F/¬0.46), the free but less comprehensive Bordeaux Plus and Clubs & Concerts , also free, detailing the city's current favourite clubs. The tourist office issues Bordeaux Magazine , a free monthly with coverage of more highbrow cultural events around town. To buy tickets for city and regional events, contact the venue direct or head for the box office (tel 05.56.48.26.26) in the nineteenth-century Galerie Bordelaise arcade, wedged between rue Ste-Catherine and rue des Piliers-de-Tutelle. Virgin Megastore (tel 05.56.56.05.55) on place Gambetta also has a ticket outlet.

Jazz and blues fans should head south down the river to the Comptoir du Jazz , 59 quai de Paludate (05.56.49.15.55); entry is free but you are expected to buy at least a drink. Other options are the Café des Arts and the more frenetic L'Alligator , 3 place du Général-Sarrail (tel 05.56.92.78.47), which blasts out the blues on Wednesday nights.

There's no shortage of more contemporary music , either. Rock is alive and kicking at Le Barclay , 57 cours de l'Argonne (tel 05.56.31.44.66), a music-bar near place de la Victoire, and near the station at the Rock School Barbey , 18 cours Barbey (tel 05.56.33.66.00). Le Jimmy , 68 rue de Madrid (tel 05.56.98.20.83), meanwhile, is perhaps Bordeaux's most famous rock-bar, popular for its DJ nights and a programme ranging from heavy metal to techno.