EZTrip.com International Destination Guide and Hotel Listings

Ankara's Esenboga airport is 33km north of town. Havas buses into the centre ($3) are timetabled to coincide with arriving Turkish Airlines flights; a taxi could set you back $30. The imposing new otogar lies around 8km to the southeast; some bus companies run service minibuses to the centre, otherwise take the Ankaray rapid transit system ($0.50), which will take you to Kazalay, in the heart of modern Ankara. To catch a dolmus from the otogar to Ulus, where most of the budget hotels are located, follow the signs to the Ankaray station and ascend to street level. Otherwise you can change from the Ankaray onto the city's other underground system, the metro , at Kazalay and take this to Ulus. The main train station is at the corner of Talat Pasa Cad and Cumhuriyet Bulvara, from where frequent buses run to Kazalay and Ulus.

City transport is no problem, with plenty of buses running the length of the main Atatürk Bulvara. Buy bus tickets in advance from kiosks next to the main bus stops (it's a good idea to stock up on tickets, as in some areas of the city there are no kiosks). Ankara has two linked underground train systems: the metro runs from Kazalay northbound through Ulus, and the Ankaray cuts east to west with an interchange at Kazalay; tickets are interchangable between the two systems. There's a tourist office at Gazi Mustafa Kemal Bulvara 121, just outside Maletepe station on the Ankaray (summer Mon-Fri 9am-6.30pm, Sat & Sun 10am-5pm; winter Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat 9am-3pm; tel 0312/231 5572), but they can offer nothing other than a map.

Most of the cheaper hotels are in the streets east of Atatürk Bulvara between Ulus and Opera Meydana; there are a few more upmarket places north of Ulus, on and around Çankiri Cad, and clusters of options along Gazi Mustafa Kemal Bulvara in Maltepe and on Atatürk Bulvara south of Kazalay, with prices increasing as you move south.

Angora House , Kalekapasa, Kaleiçi (tel 0312/309 8380). Pricey but beautiful renovated house in the old castle. The hosts are attentive and the rooms sumptuous. £20-25/$32-40.

Buhara , Sanayi Cad 13, Ulus (tel 0312/310 7999). One of the better choices in Ulus, with en-suites with TV. £5-10/$8-16.

Devran , Opera Meydana, Ulus (tel 0312/311 0485). Small, clean en-suite rooms. Under £5/$8.

Ergen , Karanfil Sok 48, Kazalay (tel 0312/417 5906). Not a budget choice but very comfortable, with TV, air-con and all rooms en-suite. £10-15/$16-24.

Güleryüz , Sanaya Cad 37, Ulus (tel 0312/310 4910). Comfortable, but slightly shabby and distinctly overpriced. All rooms ensuite with TV. £10-15/$16-24.

Mithat , Atfaiye Meydana, Tavus Sok 2, Ulus (tel 0312/311 5410, www.otelmithat.com.tr ). Professionally run, offering single and double rooms with bathrooms and TV. £10-15/$16-24.

Olimpiyat , Rüzgarl Esdost Sok 1, Ulus (tel 0312/324 3088). Reasonably priced with good en-suite rooms. £5-10/$8-16.

Yeni Yavuz , Anafartalar Cad, Konya Sok 6, Ulus (tel 0312/324 3255). Clean, presentable rooms with or without en-suite facilities. Under £5/$8.