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Ranged across the head of the valley where the Gasteiner Ache descends in a series of cascades, the streets of BADGASTEIN gaze down on the Gasteinertal like rows of seating in some ancient amphitheatre. Although known as a spa since medieval times, Badgastein didn't really take off until the early nineteenth century, when a stream of society figures - led by Archduke Johann, who built the Meranhaus here in 1828 - descended on the valley to take the cure. Emperor Franz-Josef, Kaiser Wilhelm I of Germany and Bismarck were among those who followed. The town has undergone numerous face-lifts since, although current attempts to turn it back into a chic society resort - complete with stylish hotels, modern congress centre and casino - are less than convincing. Despite the growing number of swanky four-star places, the sight of once-distinguished guesthouses falling into disrepair is a common feature of the Badgastein streets. The languorous, nineteenth-century ambience that still prevails is certainly unique in alpine Austria, however, and you'll find it either appealingly nostalgic or sombrely oppressive. The influx of ski tourists in winter invigorates this strangely ossified place, as do two events in summer that provide an excuse for general partying - the Sonnwendfeier on the night of June 21-22, when bonfires are lit on the hills above the valley to mark the summer solstice; and the annual Strassenfest , spread over the last weekend in July, featuring food, drink and live music in the streets.