EZTrip.com International Destination Guide and Hotel Listings

Comodoro has one of the region's busiest airports (tel 0297/454-8355), 8km from the centre. Colectivo bus #8 connects it with the bus terminal, or it's $7 in a remise taxi; Austral, Kaikén and Aerolíneas airlines also operate a $3 transfer to and from hotels. The bus terminal is slap-bang in the centre. Leaving the terminal, walk one block towards Cerro Chenque to reach the main thoroughfare, Avenida Rivadavia, with the helpful tourist office , half a block away at no. 430 (daily: mid-March to mid-Dec 8am-5pm; mid-Dec to mid-March 8am-9pm; tel 0297/446-2376).

Comodoro is a good place to rent cars and 4WDs - try Dubrovnik (tel 1559-23407) or Localiza (tel 0297/446-0334, fax 447-3495), in the Austral Hotel . Unlimited mileage deals make good sense for day-trips to the petrified forests of Sarmiento (there are no car rental agencies in Sarmiento itself). The Aónik'enk travel agency, Rawson 1190 (tel 0297/446-6768, fax 447-6349), runs excursions to Camarones, including a trip to see the fur seals at Cabo Dos Bahías, as well as trips to Monumento Natural Bosques Petrificados to the south, and the José Ormachea petrified forest near Sarmiento.

Restaurants include the cosy Peperonni , Rivadavia 619 (tel 0297/446-9683), whose attentive staff serve a selection of interesting omelettes, and home-made pastas ($7-9); and a fun theme restaurant, La Cueva de Butch Cassidy , San Martín and España (tel 0297/446-3725; open till late), which has an excellent $10 mixed grill tenedor libre , plus free live shows on Fridays and Saturdays after midnight, including tango. The Lucania Palazzo hotel restaurant serves an appetizing three-course menu for $16, as well as a fine dish of merluza negra (black hake; $14).

If stuck for budget accommodation , Calle Belgrano has a number of dives, catering more for locals than tourists; none is particularly welcoming. Ask for discounts with cash payment in the bigger establishments. The nearest campsite , Amutui Mi Qui Mei Hue (tel 1562-42991; $2 per person plus $5 per tent) is 12km north on the RN3. The Línea Astra colectivo from the terminal leaves you at the gate.

Austral Hotel , Rivadavia 190 (tel 0297/447-2200, fax 447-2444, haustral@satlink.com ). The new part is slightly more expensive, but worth the extra price. $80-100.

Hotel Residencial Derby , San Martín 1046 (tel 0297/446-2562). Fifteen minutes' walk from the terminal. A rudimentary budget option, but relatively friendly; rooms with (cramped) private bathrooms are more expensive, and they also have parking ($2-3). $20 or less, or $8 per person if prepared to share.

Hospedaje 25 de Mayo , 25 de Mayo 989 (tel 0297/447-2350). A clean, inexpensive guesthouse, close to the terminal, with a breezy courtyard area. Book in advance. $20-30.

Lucania Palazzo Hotel , Moreno 676 (tel & fax 0297/446-0100, reservas@lucania-palazzo.com ). Comodoro's smartest hotel: a competitively priced luxury four-star bang in the centre. It has vast suites with swimming-pool-sized jacuzzis, plus rooms for disabled guests. $100-150.

Hostería Rua Marina , Belgrano 738 (tel 0297/446-8777). A welcoming, good-value guesthouse, although some rooms don't have an outside window. $30-45.

Hotel Victoria , Belgrano 585 (tel 0297/446-0725). A decent mid-range option close to the terminal, which has clean, if unstylish and fairly small, rooms, some with bathtub and sea view. It's open 24hr, and has covered parking ($5). $45-60.