If you've come from Panajachel or Antigua, the dining scene here may come as a bit of a shock to the system. You won't find sushi or Thai curries in Chichi, just simple, good-value Guatemalan comedor food. The plaza on
market day
is the place to come for authentic highland eating: try one of the makeshift food stalls, where you'll find cauldrons of stew, rice and beans.
Buenadventura
, upper floor, inside the Centro Comercial. Bird's-eye view of the vegetable market and simple, no-nonsense food - the breakfasts are the cheapest in town.
Café-Restaurant La Villa de Los Cofrades
, 6 C and 5 Av, first floor. Good set meals - soup, a main dish and salad, fries and bread - for under US$4, plus superb breakfasts and real coffee.
Casa San Juan
, west side of the plaza, beside the El Calvario. Stylish bar-restaurant with a brightly painted interior and plenty of artwork, with good, imaginative Guatemelan cooking, including a US$2.50 set meal. Live music some nights.
Comedor Gumarcaj
, opposite the
Hotel Santo Tomás
. Simple, scruffy but cheap and friendly comedor that serves up a mean chicken and chips and lush
licuados
.
La Fonda del Tzijolaj
, upper floor of the Centro Comercial. Yes, the name's unpronounceable, but the food is probably the best in town and the balcony views of the church of Santo Tomás and the market are excellent. Try the delicious
chiles rellenos
.