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EATING AND DRINKING |
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By day at least, there's little to keep you in the
Ville Nouvelle
, the new city established by Lyautey at the beginning of the Protectorate. Unlike Casa or Rabat, where the French adapted Moroccan forms to create their own showplaces, this is a pretty lacklustre European grid. The Ville Nouvelle is, however, home to most of the faculties of the city's university, and is very much the city's business and commercial centre. If you want to talk with Fassis on a basis other than that of guide to tourist, you'll stand the most chance in the cafés here, and it's more likely that the students you meet are exactly that. The quarter is also the centre for most of the city's restaurants, cafés, bars, bookshops and other facilities.
Fes El Bali
and
Fes El Djedid
are quieter at night, except during Ramadan (when shops and stalls stay open till two or three in the morning). They have, as with all Medina quarters throughout Morocco, no bars, and with the exception of a few "Palace-Restaurants", many of which are open for lunch only and cater mainly for tour groups, their eating places are on the basic side.
Ville Nouvelle
The Ville Nouvelle has quite a selection of restaurants, though few go any way towards justifying the city's reputation as home of the country's finest cuisine. Cafés, at least, are plentiful - and there are a few bars
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Fes El Bali
Fes El Bali
has possibilities for budget meals and, at greater cost, for sampling (relatively) traditional cuisine in some splendid old palaces.
Fes El Djedid
also has some basic café-restaurants, though none worth specially...
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