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Fes has a rightful reputation as the centre of Moroccan traditional crafts but if you're buying rather than looking, bear in mind that it also sees more tourists than any of its rivals, except perhaps Marrakesh. Rugs and carpets, however much you bargain, will probably be cheaper in Meknes, Midelt or Azrou; and although the brass, leather and cloth here are the best you'll find, you will need plenty of energy, a good sense of humour and a lot of patience to get them at a reasonable price. Fassi dealers are expert hagglers - making you feel like an idiot for suggesting a ludicrously low price, jumping up out of their seats to make to push you out of the shop, or lulling you with mint tea and elaborate displays.

All of this can be fun, but you do need a certain confidence and to have some idea of what you're buying and how much you should be paying for it. For some guidelines on quality , take a look at the historic pieces in the Dar Batha museum - keeping in mind, of course, that exhibits here are the best available. If you want to check on the prices of more modest and modern artefacts, have a browse through the various shops along Av. Mohammed V in the Ville Nouvelle , which tend to have fairly fixed prices (and are easy to leave!), and, especially, at the government-run and strictly fixed-price Centre Artisanal, out past the Sheraton Fes Hôtel and on the left-hand side of Av. Allal Ben Abdallah (Mon-Sat 10.30am-6.30pm, partly open Sun same hours). It's not the best in the country - the one in Marrakesh leaves it standing - but it's worth a visit, time permitting.