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The centre of the old city is a relatively compact grid around the junction of Morelos and 16 de Septiembre , by the huge bulk of the Cathedral ; east of here Morelos leads to the Plaza Tapatía and the Mercado Libertad , while to the west are busy shopping streets. Juárez , a couple of blocks south, is actually the main east-west thoroughfare in the centre, heading out to the west past the University (where it becomes Vallarta), and crossing avenidas Chapultepec and Americas in an upmarket residential area. Further west still, it crosses López Mateos , a main through-route, which heads south past the Plaza del Sol , a shopping centre surrounded by big hotels, restaurants and much of Guadalajara's best, but quite expensive, nightlife, and eventually heading out of the city as the main road towards Colima and the coast.

The main north-south arteries in the centre are the Calzada del Federalismo , along which the tren ligero , the city's metro, runs, and Calzada Independencia , which runs from the train station, up past the Parque Agua Azul , the old bus station, the market and Plaza Tapatía, and eventually out of the city to the Parque Mirador . Finally, Revolución leads off Independencia towards the southeast - to Tlaquepaque, the new bus station and Tonalá. If you fancy taking a city tour to get your bearings, try Panoramex, Federalismo Sur 944 (tel 3/810-5109; US$20).