Hotel Listings & Destination Guide for North America - Mexico

They take their food seriously in Jalisco as a rule, and Guadalajara boasts literally hundreds of places to eat , ranging from elegant restaurants to unpretentious cafés, and from loncherias (cafés with more emphasis on short orders) to neverias (with ice cream and fresh fruit drinks). Among the local specialities dished up at street stalls, bars and the markets are birria, consisting of beef or lamb in a spicy but not particularly hot sauce, served with tortillas or in tacos; roast goat; and pozole , a stew of pork and hominy (ground maize). Don't pass up the street vendors either - their fresh tacos and bags of spiced fruit are delicious and make a cheap, healthy snack.

In the centre, there seems to be more choice west of the cathedral, where traditional cafés and restaurants line Juárez ; the University area also offers good food, especially during semester. For cheap, basic meals, the area around the old bus station is crowded with possibilities, none wildly exciting, while upstairs in the Mercado Libertad seemingly hundreds of little stands each displays its own specialities. Though there are plenty of more expensive places round the centre, they tend to be rather dull: in the evenings, locals are far more likely to be found out in the suburbs, or enjoying a raucous night at one of many themed restaurants on López Mateos Sur, a US$4 taxi-ride from the centre.

Where Galleana and C Colón meet, at C 2, there's a good selection of restaurants dotted around a pretty square with a fountain adorned with frog sculptures. Try any of the birrias around the square, such as Birria de Chivo , Colón 384, for traditional Mexican mutton dishes. A couple of good panaderías , for bread and cakes for a picnic, are Danes, at the corner of Madero at Donato Guerra; Pan Estilo México, Santa Monica 96 at Independencia; and Pasteleria Luvier, Colón 183 at Madero. Then there's always McDonald's , at Juárez and Colón.

Downtown cafés and licuados
Café D'Val , Pedro Moreno 690. Strong coffee in a relaxing atmosphere. Café Madoka , Gonzalez Martínez 78, at Juárez. Big, traditional café, serving medium-priced good breakfasts, soups and antojitos. You can also just sip a coffee...
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Downtown restaurants
Acuarius , Sanchez 410. Friendly vegetarian restaurant with tasty and cheap comidas, vegetable and fruit drinks, soy-based dishes and a healthfood store attached. Alta Fibra , Sanchez 370 between Ocampo and Galeana. Reasonably...
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University and further out
Guadalajara Grill , López Mateos Sur 3771 (tel 3/631-5622). Part of the Carlos'n'Charlie chain: Tex-Mex food, loud music, party atmosphere and dancing. It's a good idea to reserve in advance. La China Poblana , Juárez...
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Hotel Listings & Destination Guide for North America - Mexico - Guadalajara