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Plans are being considered to create a two-kilometre pollution-free exclusion zone around the Taj banning the petrol and diesel-powered vehicles which choke the city and spoil its architecture. At present, however, only a 500-metre ban is enforced (on scooters, auto-rickshaws and taxis), while the only environment-friendly initiative in operation is an electric bus for tourists, connecting the fort to the Taj (Rs1), and the fleet of green-painted tempos and auto-rickshaws, whose exhaust fumes are no less noxious for the "Clean Agra, Green Agra" slogans daubed across their backs. Although becoming fairly scarce, tongas , horse-drawn carriages, may also be encouraged as part of the pollution-control scheme, but the sight of skinny near-lame horses, often covered in open sores, tends to put most people off.

Another alternative is the city's dwindling fleet of cycle rickshaws , whose persistent drivers invariably offer their services for day tours; more often than not they'll have a book full of encouraging comments from delighted tourists. Apart from being cleaner and greener than autos, they provide a livelihood for some of the city's poorest inhabitants. An American-backed NGO has been attempting to improve the lot of Agra's rickshaw-wallahs by introducing new, lightweight, super-strong cycle-rickshaws, complete with raised passenger seats and two-speed gears. You'll come across these in the more touristy areas of town, where their drivers are encouraged to buy them using zero-interest bank loans, paid back at a manageable rate of Rs5 per day - considerably less than the rental fees most rickshaw-wallahs have to pay to their bosses.

Auto-rickshaws are faster, but contribute in no small part to Agra's traffic and pollution problems. Fares, including waiting time, are reasonable as long as you bargain hard, although the trip out to Akbar's tomb and other monuments on the outskirts of the city can cost up to Rs100. Taxis are handy for longer trips to the airport or Fatehpur Sikri. Expensive hotels have their own fleet of vehicles, and there are taxi ranks at the stations and airport.

Whichever form of transport you choose, expect to have to haggle hard. Agra sees so many "fresh" tourists that the drivers will always quote high prices. Also, note that many rickshaw- and taxi-drivers will stop at jewellers, marble shops and the like to earn commission ; some will even quote you a lower fare if you agree to visit a couple of emporiums en route. Don't consent to this (their commission will only be added to your bill should you buy something).

The best way to sidestep the hassle of public transport is to rent a bicycle , and do everything at your own pace. Try the rental shop near the Taj View Hotel or the Raja Cycle Stall near the tonga stand in Taj Ganj; charges should be around Rs4 per hour, and no more than Rs35 per day. If you walk , expect an unending stream of offers from cycle- and auto-rickshaw-wallahs.

Whatever form of transport you opt for, an early start for the Taj is essential; book rickshaws and taxis the night before