EZTrip.com International Destination Guide and Hotel Listings

GOOLWA lies 14km east of Port Elliot, and 12km upstream from the ever-shifting sand bar at the mouth of the Murray River. Boaties love its position adjacent to vast Lake Alexandrina, yet with easy access to the Coorong and the ocean. Although so close to the coast, Goolwa feels like a real river town, and it thrived above all in the days of the Murray paddle-steamer trade, when it was the final offloading port: then a rip-roaring river town with over 88 taverns, it had the biggest police station in South Australia. The railways brought the good days to an end, and today only a few reminders of boom times remain along Railway Terrace, with its old buildings painted in Federation colours. Steam trains make a comeback on Sundays, however, when the Cockle Train runs along the coast to Victor Harbor and back (every Sun & daily during school holidays; $20 return); and the Southern Encounter operates from the Adelaide Hills to Goolwa via Strathalbyn and Victor Harbor. There's also a frequent coach service from Adelaide to Goolwa run by Premier Stateliner (Mon-Fri 5 daily, Sat 2 daily, Sun 1 daily; tel 08/8414 5555).

Overlooking the wharf beside the Hindmarsh bridge is Signal Point Interpretive Centre (daily 10am-5pm; $5), an innovatively designed exhibition telling the story of the Murray and its river trade. The centre houses a small souvenir shop and café as well as the helpful Goolwa Tourist Information Centre (daily 10am-4pm; tel 08/8555 1144, www.alexandria.sa.gov.au ), who can book local river tours but not accommodation. The PS Murray River Queen (tel 08/8555 1733, fax 8555 1990, www.fleurieuregion.com/MurrayRiverQueen.htm ; $20-150), an old paddleship moored at the wharf, has a wide range of accommodation from tiny backpacker cabins to stateroom suites. Goolwa Riverport Motel (tel 08/8555 5033, fax 8555 5022; $70-90), on Noble Avenue 3km northeast of Goolwa, has motel units in a quiet setting beside the Lower Murray River, plus a pool, tennis court, bar and inexpensive dining room. The alternative in town is the Corio Hotel on Railway Terrace (tel 08/8555 2011, fax 8555 1109, corio@dove.net.au ; $50-70), which is also a popular eating place. Campers can head for Goolwa Camping and Tourist Park , Kessel Road, just 1km northwest of the centre (tel 08/8555 2144; on-site vans $20-35).