EZTrip.com International Destination Guide and Hotel Listings

The beaches of the Éxo Máni begin south of ÁYIOS NIKÓLAOS (Selenítsa), at the pleasant, tree-shaded Pantazí beach. The village's delightful little harbour is flanked by old stone houses, cafés and tavernas overlooking the fishing boats. The Limeni taverna at the southern end of the harbour, with a small shaded extension over the water, does excellent fresh fish. There is a scattering of rooms and apartments; one of the best is the Skafidakia (tel 07210/77 698; ¬24-33) in a stone building near the OTE mast, and near a hidden swimming jetty known as Gnospí; the owner can suggest local walks. The coastal road continues south, through Áyios Dimítrios and then past spectacular cliffs and the Katafíyi cave, one of several, to the end of the road at pretty Trahíla . Enquire there at the tower behind the harbour for the spacious and well-priced Kosta apartments (tel 07210/98 058; ¬34-42).

Just to the north of Áyios Nikólaos, STOÚPA is much more developed, and justifiably so. It has possibly the best sands along this coast, with two glorious beaches (Stoúpa and the smaller, deeper Kalogriá) separated by a headland, each sloping into the sea and superb for children. Submarine freshwater springs gush into the bay, keeping it unusually clean, if also a bit cold. Ten minutes to the north of Kalogriá beach is the delightful and often deserted cove of Dhelfíni. A further 600m brings you to the pebble beach of Fonéa, wrapped around a rock outcrop and tucked into a corner of the hillside. Stoúpa was home in 1917-18 to the wandering Cretan writer, Nikos Kazantzakis, who is said to have based the title character in Zorba the Greek on a worker at the coal mine in nearby Pástrova, though the book itself was written later on Égina island in the Saronic Gulf. Just inland of Stoúpa, in 371 BC, the dominance of the Spartans was finally broken, by the Thebans, at the battle of Leuctra (modern Léfktro).

Out of peak season, Stoúpa is certainly recommended, though in July and August, and any summer weekend, you may find the crowds a bit overwhelming and space at a premium. The area is an excellent base for walkers, with interesting villages and a network of paths that include some magnificently engineered kalderímia . A popular walking-guide booklet and large-scale map are available: ask at the helpfully efficient Doufexis Travel (tel 07210/77 677, douftvl@hellasnet.gr ) who can also find accommodation, provide exchange and organize car hire (including car hire and accommodation for the southern Peloponnese during the winter). Accommodation in the resort includes numerous rooms and apartments, and several hotels . The Lefktron (tel 07210/77 322; ¬34-42) and the Stoupa (tel 07210/77 485; ¬43-58) are upmarket but very friendly and reasonably priced. A good rooms option is the Petros Nikolareas studios (tel 07210/77 063; ¬34-42), seaward of the main church. Over the road from Kalogriá beach is Kalogria Camping (tel 07210/77 319; June-Oct). Towards Kardhamyli, above Dhelfíni beach, there is another livelier campsite , Ta Delfinia (tel 07210/77 318; April-Sept). There are plenty of tavernas , but Akroyali at the southern end of the main beach not only has well-prepared food, including fresh fish, but has views after dark of the lights of the mountain village Saïdhóna which look remarkably like an extra constellation of stars. The Gelateria home-made ice-cream place at the other end of the beach is justifiably famous. Bus services can be unreliable on the Kalamáta-Ítylo route, and taxis are in short supply locally; the Stoúpa taxi is on 07210/77 477 and the nearest to Áyios Nikólaos is at Plátsa on 07210/74 226.