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LLANTHONY |
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The hamlet of
LLANTHONY
is little more than a small cluster of houses, an inn and a few outlying farms around the wide open ruins of
Llanthony Priory
- a grander setting, and certainly a quieter one, than Tintern, though the buildings are far more modest in scale. It was founded in around 1100 by the Norman knight William de Lacy, who, it is said, was so captivated by the spiritual beauty of the site that he renounced worldly living and founded a hermitage, attracting like-minded recluses and forming Wales' first Augustinian priory. The roofless church, with its pointed transitional arches and squat tower, was constructed in the latter half of the twelfth century and retains a real sense of spirituality and peace. There are two good places to
stay
: the
Abbey Hotel
(tel 01873/890487; £50-60; Nov-March weekends only), fashioned out of part of the tumbledown priory, was built in the eighteenth century as a hunting lodge; along the road is the
Half Moon Inn
(tel 01873/890611; £40-50), serving superb beer and good-value meals.
From Llanthony, the road slowly climbs four miles alongside the narrowing Honddu River to the isolated hamlet of
CAPEL-Y-FFIN
, from where it's a further mile to the YHA
hostel
(tel 01873/890650,
; under £40; Feb-Nov), which also has pony trekking and
camping
. The road then weaves a tortuous route up over
Gospel Pass
and onto the howling, windy moor of
Hay Bluff
, on the glorious roof of the Black Mountains, before descending five miles to Hay-on-Wye.
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