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Aberdeen is the largest separate town on Hong Kong Island, with a population of more than sixty thousand, a dwindling minority of whom still live on sampans and junks in the narrow harbour that lies between the main island and the offshore island of Ap Lei Chau. The boat people who live here are following a tradition that certainly preceded the arrival of the British in Hong Kong, though, sadly, it now seems that their ancient way of life is facing extinction. In the meantime, a time-honoured and enjoyable tourist activity in Aberdeen is to take a tour around the harbour on one of the surviving sampans.

You won't get lost in Aberdeen. From the bus stop just head in the direction of the shore and cross over the main road using the footbridge, where women will be waiting to solicit your custom for a sampan tour . Either do a deal with one of these private entrepreneurs, or walk along the ornamental park by the waterfront until you reach a sign advertising "Water Tours" ($50 per head for a thirty-minute ride, irrespective of the number of travellers). The trip offers great photo opportunities of the old houseboats jammed together, complete with dogs, drying laundry and outdoor kitchens, as well as endless rags, nets and old tyres. Along the way you'll also pass boat yards and the floating restaurants , which are especially spectacular when lit up at night (though they are really better for admiring from the outside than for eating in).

To reach Aberdeen, catch bus #7 or #70 from Central, or #72 from Causeway Bay (30min). There's also a boat connection between here and nearby Lamma Island.