EZTrip.com International Destination Guide and Hotel Listings

ALTO DO CAPARAÓ is a small village that lines the sloping asphalted road: wait until the bus makes its final stop opposite the bar at the top of the village before getting off. There are only a few hotels in the village itself, but two are unusually good value for money, namely the basic Pousada Vale Verde by the bar (no phone; meal and packed lunch provided; $10-20), and the excellent Chalé Pico da Bandeira, Rua das Hortênsias (tel 031/3747-2626; $35-50), with ten chalets (all with TV), a bar and a pool. Otherwise, locals rent out rooms - ask at the bar for a casa familiar, which will cost about $6. Two other hotels lie up the winding signposted road, Rua Vale Verde, that leads from the bus stop. The Caparaó Parque Hotel (tel 031/3747-2559, fax 747-2530; $70-90 full board) is 1km along, a beautiful place with stunning mountain views out back, and good food and friendly staff. The national park entrance is only a short walk on from the hotel. On the same road, and considerably cheaper, is Pousada da Bezerra (tel 031/3747-2628; $20-35, full board $35-50) which, like the Caparaó Parque Hotel, has a pool and a sauna - bliss after a long day's walk. Alternative accommodation for serious hikers is camping in the park, where there are two official campsites that you can use as a base for walking.

Opposite the Caparaó Parque Hotel you can hire horses ($8 for a daytime ride, $10 in the evening) if you feel like exploring the park in a saddle rather than on foot. And there is also a simple, but very friendly, unnamed bar in a rustic wooden house with fantastic views back down the valley - a wonderful place from which to watch the sunsets.