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The long arm of the package-tour industry has finally reached CHIANG RAI , now a predominantly upmarket resort town of well over two thousand hotel rooms, but also known for its trekking. A walk up to Doi Tong , the hummock to the northwest of the centre, offers a fine view up the Kok River. On the highest part of the hill stands a kind of phallic Stonehenge centred on the town's new lak muang, representing the Buddhist layout of the universe. The old wooden lak muang can be seen in the viharn of Wat Phra That Chomtong , the city's first temple, which sprawls shambolically over the eastern side of the hill. Carved in China from 300kg of milky green jade, a beautiful replica of the Emerald Buddha , Thailand's most important image, can now be seen here.

There are plenty of handicraft shops in the town, the most authentic selection of which can be found at the non-profit-making Hilltribe Museum and Shop at 620/25 Thanon Tanalai. The upstairs museum (Mon-Fri 8.30am-8pm, Sat & Sun 10am-8pm) is a good place to find out about the local hilltribes before going on a trek. It's run by the Population and Community Development Association (PDA), which also organizes treks. A night bazaar (7-11pm) sells handicrafts off Thanon Phaholyothin next to the bus station.

The Chiang Rai region offers a range of treks , from gentle walking trails near the Kok River to tough mountain slopes further north towards the Burmese border, but the area between Chiang Rai and Mae Salong in particular has become severely over-trekked. All guesthouses in Chiang Rai offer treks - Chat, Chian and Mae Hong Son are responsible and reliable, or try the Museum - and the tourist office publishes a list of their own recommendations. An average three-day trek, with an elephant ride, costs B2000 each for two people and B1600-1800 each for up to five. For comprehensive and accurate coverage of trails and hilltribe villages in Chiang Rai province, the Guide Map of Chiang Rai by V Hongsombud (Bangkok Guides) is essential.