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NAKHON SI THAMMARAT , the south's second-largest town, is an absorbing place, well known for its traditional handicrafts and shadow plays. A huge ten-day festival, Tamboon Deuan Sip, takes place at Sri Nakharin park every September/October and is marked by processions, shadow plays and traditional theatre shows. The town runs 7km from north to south, to either side of Thanon Ratchadamnoen, which is served by frequent songthaews. The south's most important temple, Wat Mahathat , is on this road, about 2km south of the train station and town centre. Its courtyard is dominated by the huge Sri Lankan-style chedi, around which are dotted row upon row of smaller chedis. South of Wat Mahathat, the National Museum (Wed-Sun 9am-noon & 1-4.30pm; B10) houses a small but diverse collection covering prehistoric finds, Buddha images and ceramics. The best possible introduction to nang thalung, southern Thailand's shadow puppet theatre , is to head for 110/18 Soi 3, Thanon Si Thammasok, ten minutes' walk east of Wat Mahathat: here Suchart Subsin, one of the south's leading exponents of nang thalung, has opened his workshop to the public, and, for a small fee (around B50), will show you scenes from a shadow play. You can also see the puppets being made.

Nakhon's bus terminal and train station are both centrally placed. The TAT office is on Sanam Na Muang park (daily 8.30am-4.30pm; tel 075/346515-6). For inexpensive accommodation , Thai Lee Hotel at 1130 Thanon Ratchadamnoen (tel 075/356948; under $5) is the best deal. Nakhon is a great place for food . Khanom Jiin Muangkorn (10am-3pm) on Thanon Panyom near Wat Mahathat is famous for khanom jiin, noodles topped with hot, sweet or fishy sauce. The night market is near the Bue Loung Hotel on Thanon Chamroenwithi. Klickzone (8am-10pm), inside Bovorn Bazaar on Thanon Ratchadamnoen, offers Internet services.