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AUCKLAND 's urban sprawl completely smothers the North Island's wasp waist, a narrow isthmus where the island is all but severed by river estuaries probing inland from the city's two harbours. To the west, the shallow and silted Manukau Harbour opens out onto the Tasman Sea at a rare break in the long string of black-sand beaches continually pounded by heavy surf. Maori named the eastern anchorage the Waitemata Harbour for its "sparkling waters", which constitute Auckland's deep water port and a focus for the heart of the city. Every summer weekend the harbour and adjoining Hauraki Gulf explode into a riot of brightly-coloured sails.

There could hardly be a more appropriate venue for the Americas Cup , which was held in the Hauraki Gulf with great fanfare over the summer of 1999-2000 . Team New Zealand's emphatic victory brings the event back to the Waitemata Harbour over the summer of 2002-2003, and with the infrastructure now firmly in place - there seem to be pavement cafés and trendy restaurants everywhere - Auckland seems set to consolidate its position as New Zealand's most progressive city. Despite Auckland's cosmopolitan bustle and harbourside setting, few fall in love with the city on short acquaintance or stick around long enough to scratch below the surface. Those who persist might just find themselves as enthusiastic about the place as Aucklanders.