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A small, relaxed town trapped between the sea and a circle of wooded hills one hour's train ride south of Tokyo, KAMAKURA is steeped in history. Many of its 65 temples and 19 shrines were founded some eight centuries ago, when, for a brief and tumultuous period, this was Japan's political and military centre. Its most famous sight is the Daibutsu , a glorious bronze Buddha surrounded by trees, but the town's ancient Zen temples are equally compelling.

Kamakura's prime sights can be covered on a day-trip from Tokyo, starting with the temples of Kita-Kamakura , the town's northern suburb, and then walking south to the sights of central Kamakura , before finishing up at the Great Buddha in Hase on its western outskirts. If you can only spare a day, make sure you get an early start: most sights close early (generally 4.30pm in winter and only a little later in summer). However, the town more than justifies a two-day stopover, allowing time for the enchanting temples of east Kamakura and to follow one of the gentle "hiking courses" up into the hills, or to ride the Enoden line west to tiny Enoshima island. If at all possible, avoid weekends and national holidays, when both Kamakura and Enoshima are swamped with tourists.

Kamakura's biggest festivals take place in early April and mid-September, including displays of horseback archery and costume parades, though the hour-long summer fireworks display (August 10) over Sugami Bay is its most spectacular event. The town is also well-known for its spring blossoms and autumn colours, while many temple gardens are famous for a particular flower - for example, Japanese apricot at Zuisen-ji and Tokei-ji (February) and hydrangea at Meigetsu-in (mid-June).

The easiest way of getting to Kamakura is on the JR Yokosuka line from Tokyo Station (¥890) via Yokohama (¥380). Trains stop in Kita-Kamakura before pulling into the main Kamakura Station three minutes later; make sure you board a Yokosuka- or Kurihama-bound train to avoid changing at Ofuna. For a two-day outing, it's worth considering the Kamakura-Enoshima Free Kippu (¥1970), a discount ticket covering both the Yokosuka and Enoden lines. Another, much more expensive option is to take a guided tour with Japan Travel Bureau (tel 03/5620-9500; www.jtb.co.jp ); prices for the full-day tour, excluding lunch, are ¥11,000 from Tokyo and ¥9000 from Yokohama (March 22-July 15 & Sept 20-Nov 30 Wed & Sat). In addition, Odakyu Q Tours (tel 03/5321-7887, www.odakyu-group.co.jp/english ), located in Tokyo's Shinjuku Station , offers unaccompanied Kamakura day-trips, including your train fare, lunch and an explanatory English-language guidebook, but no tour guide, for ¥5000.