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Because of the events of August 6, 1945, western Honshu's largest city needs little introduction. HIROSHIMA has become a byword for the devastating, horrific effects of the atom bomb, and for this reason alone millions visit the city every year to pay their respects at the Peace Park and museum. But more than either of these formal monuments, the reconstructed city - bigger, brighter and more vibrant than ever - is eloquent testimony to the power of life over destruction. Where once there was nothing but ashes for as far as the eye could see, now stands a modern city that still retains an old-world feel with its trundling trams and sunny disposition.

Poised on the coast at the western end of the Inland Sea, Hiroshima is also the jumping-off point for several islands, most notably verdant Miya-jima , home of the beautiful shrine Itsukushima-jinja . The view out to the red torii gate standing in the shallows in front of the shrine is rightly one of Japan's most celebrated, and although the island is often swamped by day-trippers it's a delightful place to spend the night.