It's a thirty-minute drive north from Peggy's Cove to Hwy 103 and a further 40km west to
CHESTER
, a handsome and prosperous-looking town tumbling over a chubby little peninsula. Founded by New Englanders in 1759, the town, with its fine old trees and elegant frame houses, has long been the favoured resort of yachting enthusiasts whose principal shindig is the Race Week regatta held in mid-August. In July and August, Chester also hosts an excellent summer festival of contemporary music and Canadian-oriented drama at the
Chester Playhouse
, right in the middle of town (information and reservations tel 275-3933 or 1-800/363-7529,
www.ChesterPlayhouse.ns.ca
; tickets around $14). Finally, out in the bay and reached from Chester jetty by
passenger ferry
(Mon-Fri 4 daily, Sat & Sun 2 daily; 45min; $5 return) are two tiny islets,
Big
and
Little Tancook
, whose quiet country roads and benign scenery are popular with walkers, who pop across for a day's ramble. Big Tancook is the prettier of the islets and there's somewhere to eat here too -
Carolyn's Café
(June-Oct), opposite the jetty.
Chester
tourist office
(June & Sept Mon-Sat 10am-5pm, Sun noon-5pm; July & Aug Mon-Sat 9am-7pm, Sun 10am-5pm; tel 275-4616) is located in the old train station on the northern edge of town, beside Hwy 3. The office will have town maps and leaflets for an historic walking tour, and will help arrange
accommodation
, but even so you'll be lucky to find anywhere during the festival. The rest of the year, things are easier - especially on weekdays - and the town has a reasonable range of inns and B&Bs. Best of the lot is the
Captain's House Inn
, a tastefully refurbished nineteenth-century villa at 29 Central St (tel 275-3501; $80-100), followed by the four-roomed
Mecklenburgh Inn
, a B&B in a Victorian house at 78 Queen St (tel 275-4638; $60-80; June-Oct). There's also a B&B on Big Tancook, the
Levy House
(tel 228-2120; June-Sept), in an old timber home across from the jetty; they have just two guestrooms with shared bathroom. For delicious
seafood
, head for the
Rope Loft
(tel 275-3430; May-Oct) by Chester jetty, or the more informal
Sea Deck
on the floor below.