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It's around 30km from St Bernard to the fishing port of DIGBY , whose workaday centre spreads over a hilly headland that pokes out into the Annapolis Basin. The latter is connected to the Bay of Fundy by a narrow channel known as the Digby Gut, thereby subjecting Digby harbour to the swirling effects of the Fundy tides - and it's the pocket-sized harbour, with its rickety wooden piers, which is the most appealing part of town. Otherwise, Digby is notable for two things: its smoked herrings - or "Digby chicks" - chewy, dark and salty delicacies on sale beside the north end of the harbour at the Royal Fundy Seafood Market; and its delicious scallops, which you can sample at the popular Fundy Restaurant , 34 Water St (tel 245-4950), the pick of several restaurants lining the harbourfront's Water Street and its continuation, Montague Row.

Buses to Digby stop at the Irving petrol station, just off Montague Row at the south end of the waterfront, a couple of minutes' stroll from the tourist office , on Water Street (tel 245-5714). They operate a room-reservation service and give information on Digby Neck whale-watching trips . Digby has several good places to stay , beginning with the agreeable Thistle Down Inn , an old two-storey house with a motel-style annexe at 98 Montague Row (tel 245-4490 or 1-800/565-8081; $60-80; May-Oct). There's also the Bayside Inn , 115 Montague Row (tel 245-2247 or 1-888/754-0555; $40-60), which occupies an old timber house, has eleven rooms - six en suite - and is equipped with a pleasant patio.

Finally, Digby's ferry port is 5km north of town and from here Bay Ferries (tel 1-888/249-7245) runs regular car ferries across the Bay of Fundy to Saint John in New Brunswick , thereby saving a long drive (Jan to late June & mid-Oct to Dec 1-2 daily; late June to mid-Oct 2-3 daily; 3hr; passengers $25-30 single, cars $55-60, bicycles $15-20). There's a provincial tourist office in between the town and the ferry port.