EZTrip.com International Destination Guide and Hotel Listings

BONNE BAY , just along the coast from Rocky Harbour, lies at the mouth of a great gash that slices inland from the Gulf of St Lawrence framed by the severest of mountains. Most of the park's villages lie on the shore of the fjord, and it's possible to drive right round, but you have to take a long detour on Route 431, which branches off from Route 430 at Wiltondale, at the park's south entrance. Unfortunately, the ferry, which connected with Woody Point across the bay and which shortened the distance considerably, no longer runs. Minuscule WOODY POINT has a pleasant guesthouse, the Victorian Manor (tel 453-2485, www.grosmorne.com/victorianmanor ; $60-125), and the small and basic Woody Point Youth Hostel (tel 453-7254; up to $40; May-Oct). If you want to see the mountains from the water, tours of Bonne Bay are available with Bontours (mid-June to early Sept daily 10am & 2pm; 2hr; $20; tel 458-2730 or 1-800/563-9887); boats depart from Government Wharf at Norris Point.

The Lookout Trail (5km return) begins about 1km from Woody Point and has the best panoramic views in the park. Heading further west from the village along Route 431, it's 3km to the start of the Tablelands Hiking Trail , a four-kilometre circular track that cuts across a forbidding area of bare and barren rock. Another 8km along Route 431 leads to the sixteen-kilometre loop of the Green Gardens Trail , which twists its way to some secluded coves, caves and sea stacks and is equipped with three primitive campsites (each $10 per night). Continuing down the road, it's a further 4km to Trout River Pond , sandwiched by the yellowed bareness of the Tablelands and the massive cliffs bordering the Gregory Plateau - this is one of the places where you really notice the tremendous uplifts of land caused by the collision of the North American and European continents 450 million years ago. The views here are splendid and the best way to see the lake is on the Tablelands Boat Tour (daily: mid- to late June & early to mid-Sept 1pm; July & Aug 10am, 1pm & 4pm; 2hr; $25; tel 451-2101). For accommodation , there are simple lodgings at Crocker Cabins in Trout River (tel 451-3236; units $60-80; mid-May to mid-Sept).