Sleepy
BELLEVUE
is the first village worthy of the name after Fort Macleod; an oddball and close-knit spot with an old-world feel unusual in these parts. It's distinguished by a church the size of a dog kennel and a wooden tepee painted lemon yellow, as well as the claim to have "the best drinking water in Alberta". Nonetheless, it supports a small summer-only
infocentre
by the campsite
and provides visitors with the opportunity to explore - complete with hard hat and miner's lamp - a wonderfully dark and dank 100m or so of the old
Bellevue Mine
(30min tours every half-hour mid-May to early Sept daily 10am-5.30pm; $6; tel 562-7388). The only mine open to the public locally, it ceased production in 1962, but remains infamous for an explosion in 1910 that destroyed the ventilator fan. Thirty men died in the disaster, though not from the blast, but by breathing so-called "afterdamp", a lethal mixture of carbon dioxide and carbon monoxide left after fire has burnt oxygen from the atmosphere. As if this wasn't enough, Canada's worst mining disaster ever had occurred five years earlier at
HILLCREST
, a village immediately to the south of Bellevue (signed from Hwy 3), when 189 men were killed by an explosion and the effects of "afterdamp". All were buried together a few centimetres apart in mass graves, now the
Hillcrest Cemetery
on 8th Avenue.
Bellevue has a quaint
campsite
, the
Bellecrest Community Association Campground
(tel 564-4696; donation), located just off the highway just east of the village: it's open May to October and has 22 "random" sites, toilets, tap water and an on-site ten-seat church with recorded sermons. The site is also handy for the
Leitch Collieries Provincial Historic Site
, just off the main road to the north before the campsite. This was once the region's largest mining and coking concern; it was also the first to close (in 1915). Today there's little to see in the way of old buildings, but displays and boardwalk interpretive trails past "listening posts" fill you in on mining techniques. The overgrown site is also enthusiastically described by interpretive staff (mid-May to mid-Sept daily 10am-4pm; winter site unstaffed; $2; tel 562-7388).
The Crowsnest Pass trail of destruction, death and disaster continues beyond Bellevue. Dominating the skyline behind the village are the crags and vast rock fall of the
Frank Slide
, an enormous landslide that has altered the contours of Turtle Mountain, once riddled with the galleries of local mines. On April 29, 1903 an estimated 100 million tonnes of rock on a front stretching for over 1km and 700m high trundled down the mountain, burying 68 people and their houses in less than two minutes. Amazingly none of the miners working locally were killed - they dug themselves out after fourteen hours of toil. The morbidly interesting
Frank Slide Interpretive Centre
, situated 1.5km off the highway about 1km north of the village, highlights European settlement in the area, the coming of the Canadian Pacific Railway to Alberta and the technology, attitudes and lives of local miners (daily: June to early Sept 9am-8pm; early Sept to May 10am-5pm; $4; tel 562-7388). It's well worth wandering around the site and slide area - there's a 1.5-kilometre trail or you can walk up the ridge above the car park for good views and an idea of the vast scale of the earth movement: no one to this day quite understands the science of how boulders travelled so far from the main slide (several kilometres in many cases). "Air lubrication" is the best theory, a device by which the cascading rock compressed the air in front of it, creating a hovercraft-like cushion of trapped air on which it "rode" across the surface.