A popular summer resort area, the southern section of the
Lake Huron shoreline
is trimmed by sandy beaches and a steep bluff that's interrupted by the occasional river valley. The water is much less polluted than Lake Ontario, the sunsets are fabulously beautiful, and in Bayfield and Goderich the lakeshore possesses two of the most appealing places in the whole of the province. Of the two, the more southerly is
BAYFIELD
, a wealthy and good-looking village whose handsome timber villas nestle amongst well-tended gardens beneath a canopy of ancient trees - all about 80km north of London. The villagers have kept modern development at arm's length - there's barely a neon sign in sight, never mind a concrete apartment block - and almost every old house has been beautifully maintained: look out for the scrolled woodwork, the fanlights and the graceful verandas. Historical plaques give the lowdown on the older buildings that line Bayfield's short
Main Street
, and pint-sized
Pioneer Park
on the bluff overlooking the lake at the west end of Main Street is a fine spot to take in the sunset, but it's the general appearance of the place that appeals rather than any particular sight. If you've the time, you should also venture down to the
harbour
on the north side of the village and from there ramble up along the banks of the Bayfield River where, in season, you can pick wild mushrooms and fiddleheads. The Mara Street footpath down to the harbour begins just behind Pioneer Park - it's signed. In winter there's ice fishing and skating to enjoy.
You'll need your own transport to get to Bayfield - there are no
buses
at all. The
tourist office
(May-Sept daily 10am-6pm; tel 519/565-2499), in the booth by Hwy 21 just north of the Bayfield River bridge, has a full list of local
accommodation
and they will help you find a room, though their assistance is only really necessary in July and August when most places - including the B&Bs - are heavily subscribed. At other times of the year, it's easy enough to find a place yourself. The best
hotel
for miles around is the outstanding
Little Inn of Bayfield
, Main Street (tel 519/565-2611 or 1-800/565-1832, fax 519/565-5474,
www.littleinn.com
; $100-125), a tastefully modernized early nineteenth-century timber-and-brick building with a handsome second-floor veranda and delightfully furnished rooms, most of which have whirlpool baths. The hotel has an annexe just across the street and, once again, the rooms here are simply splendid. Incidentally, do not confuse this hotel with the
Bayfield Village Inn
, a very different proposition. Other good places to stay include the pleasant
Albion Hotel
, in another old building on Main Street (tel 519/565-2641; $40-60), and several charming
B&Bs
: try beside the village green at either the
Clifton Manor Inn
, 19 The Square (tel 519/565-2282; $80-100; reservations required), or
Clair on the Square
, 12 The Square (tel 519/565-2135; $60-80). There's
camping
at
Pinery Provincial Park
(tel 519/243-2220), a popular chunk of forested sand dune beside Lake Huron about 40km south of Bayfield.
Bayfield has several great places to
eat
, but it's hard to beat the smart and chic restaurant of the
Little Inn of Bayfield
, which is the best place to sample fish from Lake Huron - perch, white fish, pickerel or steelhead. Footsteps away, the
Red Pump Restaurant
(tel 519/565-2576) is similarly classy, whilst the
Albion Hotel
has more routine, but appetizing and less costly bar food and meals.