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Mountmellick and Portarlington are typical of the few little settlements that grew up independently of the great houses, and both were communities of outsiders. MOUNTMELLICK , about six miles north of Portlaoise on the N80, was founded in the seventeenth century by Quakers and still has a spacious eighteenth-century feel to it. You need imagination to see the houses as the elegant buildings they must once have been, but Mountmellick in its heyday was undoubtedly both cultured and prosperous - it had 27 industries, including brewing, distilling, soap- and glue-making and iron foundries. It was also famous for Mountmellick work , white-on-white embroidery that used the forms of flowers and plants to create elegant designs. Displays on this, and on the town's Quaker heritage, can be found in the renovated Codd's Mill which now acts as the town's heritage centre (daily 9am-5pm; tel 0502/24525); take the first right after Market Square to the Portlaoise Road, and the centre along with the fine Old Mill restaurant are on the right.

PORTARLINGTON , six miles northeast of Mountmellick along the R423, was founded in 1667 by Sir Henry Bennett, Lord Arlington, and settled by a group of Huguenot refugees in the late seventeenth century. They built elegant Georgian houses with spacious orchards and gardens, which once grew exotic fruit such as peaches and apricots; particularly fine mansions are to be seen in Patrick Street. Testimony to the town's French heritage can be seen in some of the French inscriptions on the tombstones of St Michael's Church, still known as the French Church, where names such as Champ and Le Blanc survive. The town's elegant Huguenot menfolk used to sit outside the Tholsel, or Market House, in Market Square, sipping the exotic new beverage, tea, from porcelain cups. This idyll had its darker side though: a channel was dug to encircle the town, already surrounded on three sides by the River Owenmass, with water to protect it from the displaced Irish, who had gone to live in the bogs. Today, the town's heritage is celebrated in a French week - complete with snail-eating competition - in July. The People's Museum (Sun 11.30am-1pm & 3-5.30pm; free) in the Catholic Club on Main Street, has exhibits ranging from four thousand-year-old axe-heads to twentieth-century artefacts.

There are few eating options in the town but for a quick snack try Matthews café/homebakery on Main Street, which as well as serving good coffee has a fine collection of books and pamphlets relating to local history.

Set on the banks of the tranquil River Barrow, between Portarlington and Monasterevin, the ruins of Lea Castle are an impressive sight. The best way to reach the castle is to leave Portarlington on the main Dublin road where, after one mile, there is a sign for Killenard on the right, while the road to the castle is shortly afterwards on the left; to access the castle walk through the farmyard near the road or, alternatively you can head along a pleasant river walk beginning in the village of Monasterevin four miles to the east. The castle dates back to the thirteenth century when it was the stronghold of Maurice Fitzgerald, a member of the powerful Anglo-Norman family who controlled this area. In 1315 it was burned by Edward Bruce (brother of King Robert Bruce of Scotland), who had been invited to Ireland by the Irish chieftains to create trouble for the Anglo-Normans. The castle later provided refuge for Silken Thomas, another Fitzgerald, after he rebelled against Henry VIII, and in 1650, like most castles in the area, it fell foul of Oliver Cromwell's forces after they had taken Dunamase.

One of the few really big estates in County Laois is Emo Court ; take the R419 from Portarlington (or if approaching from Portlaoise turn off the N7 at New Inn). Designed by James Gandon for Sir Henry Bennett around 1790, but not finished, and not entirely according to Gandon's plans, until the mid-nineteenth century. It's a massive domed building which has been impressively restored by its present owner after years of neglect when it was run as a Jesuit seminary. The house is now administered by the Office of Public Works, and open for guided tours (mid-June to mid-Sept Tues-Sun 10.30am-5pm; £2/¬2.54; Heritage Card). You can also wander through the extensive grounds during daylight hours. The nearby Coolbanagher Church is a modest and graceful building also designed by Gandon, but unfortunately is only open for services).