EZTrip.com International Destination Guide and Hotel Listings

Though its name translates as "the back of the old cow's arse", DRUMSHANBO , eight miles north of Carrick, is a neat, cheerful place with an air of briskness poised at the southern tip of the beautiful Lough Allen . The Sliabh an Iarainn Visitor Centre (April-Oct Mon-Sat 10am-6pm, Sun 2-6pm; £1/¬1.27) gives some interesting background on local life, including the use of the sweathouse, a sort of sauna, and the tradition of coal and iron mining, especially out towards Arigna. The last of the mines in the area closed in 1990.

In July, the village holds the Joe Mooney Summer School, a week of traditional music classes and set dancing. You need to be experienced to join the music classes, but there is set dancing for novices and plenty of sessions in the bars (further details on tel 078/41213). Drumshanbo's tourist office is based at Mrs Mooney's   B&B on the corner of the High Street and the Carrick Road (tel 078/41013; £26-33/¬33.01-41.90). Other places to stay include Paddy Mac's pub and guesthouse (tel 078/41128; £40-55/¬50.79-69.84), High Street, and Fraoch Bán (tel 078/41260; £33-40/¬41.90-50.79), a smart B&B half-a-mile north on the Dowra road, with lovely views over the lake. You can camp at Moorlands Equestrian Centre, at the southernmost tip of Lough Allen (tel 078/41500; trekking £12/¬15.24 per hour). Meals are served all day at The Allendale Restaurant , Convent Avenue. There are a handful of bars where you might find music during the summer: Conway's , at the head of the Manorhamilton road, is a cosy favourite, with sessions on Thursdays. Other bars with music worth checking out are The Mountain Tavern (Wed), and Monica's (Mon).

Music aside, Drumshanbo's finest asset is its proximity to Lough Allen and Slieve Anierin. By car the scenery is not particularly dramatic, but there is plenty of enjoyable walking, cycling and pony trekking. The Leitrim Way from here to Dowra (signposted Slí Liatroma , ten miles) affords expansive views across the lake to Corrie Mountain for almost the whole way. You can rent a bike for £7/¬8.89 from Moran's on Convent Avenue (tel 078/41043); a circuit of the lake via Dowra and Drumkeeran is around 25 miles in total. Horse riding is available at Moorlands Equestrian Centre (tel 078/41500). Fisherfolk are well served too: Lough Allen is noted as having the best pike fishing in Europe, and rowing boats can be hired from Lough Allen Angling Services (tel 078/41648; £15/¬19.05 per day).