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DIVES AND CABOURG |
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DIVES
, the port from which William the Conqueror sailed for Hastings, is another 3km west from Houlgate, though like Honfleur it's now pushed well back from the sea. A lively Saturday
market
focuses around the ancient oak
halles
, whose steep tiled roof must be five times the height of its walls; on market days, it's crammed with mouthwatering delicacies and Norman specialities. Dives is also home to an inexpensive
hotel
, the
Hôtel de la Gare
at 10 pace Trefouet (tel 02.31.91.24.52; 160-220F/¬24-34; closed Dec & Jan).
At the much newer town of
CABOURG
, across the mouth of the Dives river, the
fin-de-siècle
streets of the town centre fan out in perfect symmetry from what must be the straightest promenade in France, with semi-circular avenues linking them together. The resort, contemporary with Deauville, seems to be stuck in the nineteenth century - immobilized by Proust, perhaps, who wrote for a while in the
Grand Hôtel
, one of an outrageous ensemble of buildings around the
Jardins du Casino
. The
tourist office
in the Jardins du Casino has full details on hotels (July & Aug daily 9.30am-7pm; rest of year Mon-Sat 9.30am-12.30pm & 2-6.30pm, Sun 10am-12.30pm & 2.30-6pm; tel 02.31.91.20.00,
www.cabourg.net
). A pleasant
place to stay and eat
is
L'Oie qui Fume
, 18 av de la Brèche-Buhot (tel 02.31.91.27.79; 220-300F/¬34-46; closed Jan to mid-Feb, plus Mon evening, Tues & Wed in low season), 100m back from the sea on a quiet road half a dozen streets west of the centre; its 138F/¬21.04 menu features goose (
oie
) as either starter or main course.
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