TAIN-L'HERMITAGE
, accessible from both the N7 and the A7, is unpretentious and uneventful. The only reason to stay here is to drink wine and eat chocolate. You can sample a good selection of the renowned Hermitage and Crozes-Hermitage
wines
at the Cave de Tain-l'Hermitage, 22 rte de Larnage (Mon-Sat 8am-noon & 2-6pm, Sun 9am-noon & 2-6pm; tel 04.75.08.20.87), and if your visit happens to fall on the last weekend in February you can try out wines from 78 vineyards in the Foire aux Vins des Côtes du Rhône Septentrionales. The celebrated
chocolates
in question are made by Valrhona and available at their shop (Mon-Fri 9am-7pm, Sat 9am-6pm) on avenue du Président-Roosevelt (the RN7), past the junction with the RN95 as you're heading south.
The
tourist office
, at 70 av Jean-Jaurès (Mon-Sat 9am-noon & 2-6pm; tel 04.75.08.06.81, fax 04.75.08.34.59), on the RN7 further north, can provide you with lists of vineyard addresses. If you need to
stay
, try the inexpensive hotel at 19 av du Dr Paul Durand,
Hôtel de la Gare
(tel 04.75.08.50.93, fax 04.75.07.11.71; 160-220F/¬24-34), or the slightly more upmarket
Les 2 Côteaux
, 18 rue Joseph-Péala, running off Jean-Jaurès south of place Taurobole (tel 04.75.08.33.01, fax 04.75.08.44.20; 160-220F/¬24-34). For a cheap
meal
in Tain try the crêperie
La Récré
, 8 place Taurobole, as an alternative to the stuffier establishments on avenue Jean-Jaurès. Tain's best restaurant,
Reynaud
, 82 av du Président-Roosevelt (tel 04.75.07.22.10; closed Sun evening & Mon, and Jan), has an excellent-value 190F/¬28.98 menu, with à la carte upwards of 300F/¬45.75.
On the third weekend of September, the different wine-producing villages celebrate their cellars in the
Fête des Vendanges
. But at any time of the year you can go bottle- hunting along the N86 for some 30km north of Tain along the right bank, following the
dégustation
signs and then crossing back over between Serrières and Chanas.