INTERLAKEN
isn't much more than its long main street,
Höheweg
, with a train station at each end. It has little to amuse the trippers passing through on their way to the mountains, save for the cafés and hotel bars lining Höheweg and some great
views
towards the Jungfrau massif, perfectly framed between two hills and best savoured from Höhematte, a central grassy rectangle of parkland. The town lies on a neck of land between two of Switzerland's most attractive
lakes
, and the best way to arrive is by boat.
Interlaken Ost
station is the terminus of mainline trains and the departure point for branch lines into the mountains; boats also dock here from Brienz, on the Luzern rail line. Trains from the Bern/Zürich direction pass first through
Interlaken West
(docking point for Thunersee boats), and this station is nearer to the
tourist office
, which sits beneath the town's tallest building at Höheweg 37 (Mon-Fri 8am-noon & 2-6pm, also June-Sept Sat 8am-5pm, Oct-May Sat 8am-noon; July & Aug also Sun 5-7pm; tel 033/822 21 21,
www.interlakentourism.ch
). Beware that accommodation fills up very quickly in the summer and winter high seasons; there are hotel lists and courtesy phones at both stations. Interlaken's
HI hostel
is 2km east, at Aareweg 21 in Bönigen (tel 033/822 43 53,
www.youthhostel.ch
; £10-15/$16-24; bus #1); you'd do better joining the backpacker crowd at the excellent SB
Balmer's Herberge
, fifteen minutes south of town at Hauptstrasse 23, Matten (tel 033/822 19 61,
www.balmers.com
; £5-10/$8-16). There are quieter hostels in town, led by the quality SB
Backpackers Villa Sonnenhof
, Alpenstrasse 16 (tel 033/826 71 71,
www.villa.ch
; £10-15/$16-24), which also has
Internet
access; also try
Alp Lodge
, Marktgasse 59 (tel 033/822 47 48,
www.alplodge.ch
; £10-15/$16-24), or the SB
Happy Inn
, Rosenstrasse 17 (tel 033/822 32 25,
www.happy-inn.com
; £5-10/$8-16). The nearest
campsite
is
Sackgut
behind Ost station (tel 033/822 44 34; closed Nov-April). Of the dozens of
hotels
,
Alphorn
, Rugenaustrasse 8 (tel 033/822 30 51,
www.hotel-alphorn.ch
; £20-25/$32-40) is a charming, well-run little place. For budget
food
, visit
Migros
restaurant opposite West station (currently undergoing rebuilding work);
PizPaz
on Centralstrasse for pasta, pizza and fish dishes; or
El Azteca
, Jungfraustrasse 30, offering Mexican set-meals from Sfr14.
Café Runft
opposite West station is a tearoom, snackerie and
bar
open until 3am;
Positiv Einfach
, Centralstrasse 11, is a small but hip music bar; and
Balmer's
hostel has cheap beer. In
adventure sports
, Alpin Raft (tel 033/823 41 00,
www.alpinraft.ch
) is the local leader, running loads of activities every day from skydiving to horse trekking.