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GARMISCH-PARTENKIRCHEN , some 19km south of Oberammergau by road, is the most famous resort in the German Alps, partly because it's at the foot of the highest mountain - the Zugspitze - and partly because it hosted the fourth Winter Olympics back in 1936. Its location is marvellous, lying between the gentle Ammer mountains and the imposing peaks of the Wetterstein chain which form the frontier with Austria. During the winter months Garmisch is one of the foremost skiing bases, and it has excellent facilities for skating and other winter sports too. In summer, mountaineers and hiking enthusiasts come to explore the craggy heights, while there are cable cars for the less energetic.

The 1936 games quite literally put the town on the map; previously Garmisch and Partenkirchen had been separate villages, lying west and east of the River Partnach respectively. The area between them has now been built up, so that at first the town appears as a seamless whole, but closer acquaintance reveals that each part preserves its historic core and at least something of its old identity.

Garmisch's centre is the ritzier of the two, with plenty of fashionable shops and cafés. Its Kurpark (daily 9am-10pm; DM2/¬1) has both formal and "natural" sections, and regularly hosts open-air concerts. Within the park is the Kurhaus , which contains the Stiftung Aschenbrenner (Tues-Fri 9am-noon & 3-6.30pm, Sat & Sun 10am-noon & 3-6.30pm; free), a delightful collection of Meissen porcelain and historic toys. A short distance to the west is the Pfarrkirche St Martin , a typical example of the work of Joseph Schmuzer. Further south is the Alte Kirche , which dates back to the time of Garmisch's foundation in the late thirteenth century, although the original Romanesque structure was partially modified in Gothic style. Inside are fourteenth- to sixteenth-century fresco cycles.

Partenkirchen's centre is characterized by the presence of many traditional painted houses, and one of these, the former merchant's residence at Ludwigstr. 47, contains the Werdenfelser Heimatmuseum (Tues-Fri 10am-1pm & 3-6pm; DM3/¬1.50), which vividly brings the region's distinctive culture to life. Among the exhibits are sculptures by Ignaz Günther and the house's former owner, Joseph Wackerle, reconstructed interiors, Carnival masks, an eighteenth-century crib, costumes, glass paintings and furniture. Another church by Joseph Schmuzer, the Franciscan Wallfahrtskirche St Anton , lies in a rustic setting at the eastern edge of Partenkirchen, and is approached via a steepish path lined with ten pilgrimage chapels.