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COONABARABRAN is a touristy little town on the Castlereagh River, 160km north of Dubbo via the Newell Highway, and 465km northwest of Sydney. People come here to gaze at stars in the clear skies, or for bushwalking and climbing in the spectacular Warrumbungles, an ancient mountain range 35km to the west.

By virtue of its proximity to the Siding Spring Observatory Complex (daily 9.30am-4pm; $5.50), perched high above the township on the edge of the Warrumbungle National Park, Coonabarabran considers itself the astronomy capital of Australia. The skies are exceptionally clear out here, due to the dry climate and a lack of pollution and population. The giant 3.9-metre optical telescope (one of the largest in the world) can be viewed close up from an observation gallery, and there's an astronomy exhibition, complemented by hands-on exhibits and a video show. There's no public transport here, but the school bus passes by - ask at the visitors centre. You can't actually view the stars at Siding Spring, but the Skywatch Observatory (daily; opening times vary; $7.70, night show $12.10; book before dusk on 02/6842 3303; www.skywatch.cx ) on Timor Road, 2km from town on the way to the Warrumbungles, has night viewing through its modern telescope, plus a planetarium and computer space-simulation programs.