From Elephant Pass the road heads on to
ST MARYS
, a picturesque little town surrounded by state forest and waterfalls. The place has a quiet, old-fashioned feel to it, plus a slight alternative edge, and there are some fine bushwalks in the area. The nicest place to stay is
Seaview Farm
(tel 03/6372 2341; en-suite rooms $35-50, dorms under $20), in an idyllic setting 8km uphill from St Marys on German Town Road. Meals aren't provided, so bring provisions; you can arrange a pick-up in advance if you don't have your own transport.
Heading downhill back to the coast, you'll arrive at
ST HELENS
, the largest town on the east coast and the last before the Tasman Highway turns west and inland. It's situated on
Georges Bay
, a long, narrow bay with two encircling arms, and although both the town and bay are fairly dull, the surrounding coastline has plenty of interest. Local
information
is available from the St Helens History Room, at 55 Cecilia St opposite the post office (Mon-Fri 9am-4pm & Sat 9am-noon, plus Sun 10am-2pm in summer; $2; tel 03/6376 1744), which provides maps and gives information about walks as well as details of the area's mining history.
The southern arm of Georges Bay is the site of
St Helens Point Recreation Area
, where there's a large lagoon - Diana's Basin - which the highway skirts as it enters town. On the ocean side the
Peron sand dunes
stretch for several kilometres, and at the point there's good surfing at
Beer Barrel Beach
.
Binalong Bay
, 10km north of Georges Bay, has a beach of bright sugary sand and is an easy bike ride away, with only a couple of small climbs. It's another popular surf spot (with a strong current, so beware); there's safer swimming in the large lagoon tucked behind, where people boat and waterski. You can
camp
here, as well as further along at the
Bay of Fires Coastal Reserve
.
To get to the southern half of
Mount William National Park
take the road running inland north for 54km from St Helens to the pink-granite tower of the Eddystone Lighthouse. The northern end of the park is reached via Gladstone, by taking an unsealed track to
Great Musselroe Bay
, where there's a free basic
campsite
. There are no real tracks within the park itself, but plenty of beach and headland walking, and lots of Forrester kangaroos. The excellent
Bay of Fires Walk
(tel 03/6331 2006, fax 6331 5526,
www.bayoffires.com.au
; four days $1150) is a four-day guided coastal walk through Mount William National Park; packs and waterproof jackets are provided and accommodation is in luxury "eco-tents" and a superbly designed ecolodge 40m above the sea with stunning views up and down the coast.