DALE
, fourteen miles west of Haverfordwest, can be unbearably crowded in peak season, but it is a pleasant enough village, whose east-facing shore makes it excellent for watersports in the lighter seas. All the activity happens around the beachside shack of West Wales Wind, Surf and Sailing (tel 01646/636642), who give instruction in power-boating, windsurfing, surfing, sailing and kayaking (£30-£50 per half-day). A few yards away is the village's cheapest
accommodation
in the shape of the
Richmond House
B&B and superior bunkhouse (tel 07974/925009; under £40). Alternatively, there's the
Post House Hotel
(tel 01646/636201; £40-50), in the middle of the village just behind the real-ale
Griffin Inn
, which has en-suite rooms and optional evening meals; and for a touch of luxury, there's
Allenbrook
(tel 01646/636254; £40-50; closed Dec), a charming country house close to the beach.
The calm waters of Dale are deceptive, and as soon as you head further south towards
St Ann's Head
, one of the most invigoratingly desolate places in the county, the wind speed whips up, with waves and tides to match. The coast path sticks tight to the undulating coastline, passing tiny bays en route to the St Ann's lighthouse.
The most useful
bus
for accessing the central Pembrokeshire coast is the #400 summer service (2 daily) which runs from Milford Haven to Dale (25min), Martin's Haven (40min), Broad Haven (1hr 15min) and St David's (2hr).