EZTrip.com International Destination Guide and Hotel Listings

It was the discovery of china clay, or kaolin, in the downs to the north of ST AUSTELL that spurred the town's growth in the eighteenth century. An essential ingredient in the production of porcelain, kaolin had until then only been produced in northern China, where a high ridge, or kao-lin , was the sole known source of the raw material. Still a vital part of Cornwall's economy, the clay is now mostly exported for use in the manufacture of paper, as well as paint and medicines. The conical spoil heaps left by the mines are a feature of the local landscape, especially on Hensbarrow Downs to the north, the great green and white mounds making an eerie sight.

St Austell's nearest link to the sea is at CHARLESTOWN , an easy downhill walk from the centre of town. This unassuming and unspoilt port is named after the entrepreneur Charles Rashleigh, who in 1791 began work on the harbour in what was then a small fishing community two miles south of St Austell, widening its streets to accommodate the clay wagons daily passing through. Behind the harbour, the Shipwreck Museum (March-Oct daily 10am-6pm; £4.45) is entered through tunnels once used to convey the clay to the docks, and shows a good collection of photos and relics as well as tableaux of historical scenes.

On each side of the dock the coarse sand and stone beaches have small rock pools, above which cliff walks lead around St Austell Bay. Eastwards, you soon arrive at overdeveloped Carlyon Bay , whose main resort is Par . The beaches here get clogged with clay - the best swimming is to be found by pressing on to the sheltered crescent of Polkerris . The easternmost limit of St Austell Bay is marked by Gribbin Head , near which stands Menabilly House, where Daphne Du Maurier lived for 24 years - it was the model for the "Manderley" of Rebecca . The house is not open to the public, but you can walk down to Polridmouth Cove, where Rebecca met her watery end.

Trains on the main London-Penzance line serve St Austell, with most services also stopping at Par. Bus service #24 links St Austell, Charlestown, Par and Polkerris. Charlestown has two really attractive places to stay : T'Gallants (tel 01726/70203; £40-50), a smart Georgian B&B at the back of the harbour where cream teas are served in the garden, and Broad Meadow House , behind the Shipwreck Centre on Quay Road (tel 01726/76636, BestTribe@tinyworld.co.uk ; under £40). Behind T'Gallants , the Rashleigh Arms offers real ale and a range of food , though the most highly commended pub in the area is the Rashleigh Inn at Polkerris.