CHARLEVOIX
boasts a positively idyllic setting, fronting onto three separate lakes: Michigan, Charlevoix and the beautiful, bowl-shaped Round Lake. Petunia-lined
Bridge Street
, the two-block downtown, looks over a picturesque, almost landlocked
harbor
on Round Lake, hemmed in on other sides by terraced ridges. An undeniably beautiful place, in recent years it has become a bit too fancy. Stop by the helpful
visitor center
, 408 E Bridge St (tel 231/547-2101 or 1-800/367-8557). Two sandy beaches on the Michigan shoreline are great places to watch the sunset.
Lakeside
hotels
, such as the turreted
Weathervane Terrace
, 111 Pine River Lane (tel 231/547-9955,
; $160-200), may charge more than $300 on peak weekends. The
Charleboyne Motel
, at US-31 and Boyne City Road a mile north of town (tel 231/547-9340; $50-75), is small, basic and clean. One of the best value
B&Bs
, the
MacDougall House
, 109 Petoskey Ave (tel 231/547-5788,
; $75-100), has private bathrooms and huge breakfasts.
Whitney's Oyster Bar
, 305 Bridge St (tel 231/547-0818), serves fresh seafood and snacks until 2am with lots of beers and upstairs seating.
Bigger and busier
PETOSKEY
, sixteen miles north along US-31, high above Lake Michigan, feels more like a real town, with its grand Victorian houses encircling the nicely restored
Gaslight District
downtown. Ernest Hemingway spent many of his teenage summers here - his novel
The Torrents of Spring
alludes to several local landmarks. The most central and welcoming hotel is the venerable
Perry's Hotel
, at Bay and Lewis streets (tel 231/347-4000 or 1-800/737-1899; $100-130); its
Noggin Room Pub
has good snacks and pizza. The award-winning
Serenity B&B
, at 618 E Lake St (tel 231/347-1338,
; $130-160), is a big Victorian house serving superb full breakfasts. Budget lodging is sometimes available in the clean dorms at North Central Michigan College, 1515 Howard St (tel 231/348-6611; up to $35). One of Hemingway's favorite hangouts was
Jesperson's
, 312 Howard St (tel 231/347-3601), which still does great pies and sandwiches. The locally popular
Mitchell Street Pub
, 426 E Mitchell St (tel 231/347-1801), also offers decent snacks. The town's helpful
visitor center
is at 401 E Mitchell St (Mon-Fri 8am-4pm; tel 1-800/845-2828,
).
Twelve miles up Hwy-119,
HARBOR SPRINGS
is a favorite with the Midwestern elite. Its charming main street and small shaded beach with park are certainly captivating, but the sheer ostentation puts many off this "Cornbelt Riviera" resort. The comfy
Harbor Springs Cottage Inn
, at Bay and Zoll streets (tel 231/526-5431; $100-130), has the only reasonably affordable rooms in town.