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In 1890 GALVESTON on the northern tip of Galveston Island, the southern terminus of I-45 was a thriving port, far larger than Houston fifty miles northwest; many newly arrived European immigrants chose to stay here in the so-called "Queen of the Gulf." Thanks to its pretty historic district and its popularity with Houston residents seeking a summer escape, Galveston's undergone a certain revitalization.

The Strand downtown, the 19th-century "Wall Street of the Southwest," has been fitted with gaslights, upmarket shops, restaurants and galleries. The Texas Seaport Museum , in amongst a complex of shops and restaurants on Pier 21, just off Water Street (daily 10am5pm; $6; tel 409-763-1877, www.tsm-elissa.org ), focuses on the port's role in trade and immigration during the nineteenth century; admission includes boarding the Elissa , an 1877 tall ship. Harbor tours (Sat 8.30am, 10.30am & 1.30pm; $12) leave from the adjacent Pier 22, taking a 90-minute look at the town's trading history.

Between the Strand and the beaches, old houses are everywhere, among them the ostentatious Bishop's Palace , 1402 Broadway (summer MonSat 10am5pm, Sun noon5pm; rest of year daily noon4pm; $6), with its stained glass, mosaics and marble; the antebellum Ashton Villa , 2328 Broadway (MonSat 10am4pm, Sun noon4pm; $5), which shows a film about the 1900 hurricane and tours starting on the hour; the 1839 Samuel May Williams Home , 3601 Ave P (Sat & Sun noon4pm; $3), a New England residence moved here from Maine; and the city's oldest building, the Michel B. Menard Home , 1605 33rd St (FriSun noon4pm; $6), an imposing wooden structure built in 1838 which now holds a good collection of American antiques. Galveston's old Santa Fe depot, at 25th Street and the Strand, is now a Railroad Museum (daily 10am4pm; $5), displaying steam trains, Pullman cars and endless train-travel-related artifacts in a skillful evocation of a lost era. Eerie white statues stand around in the waiting room; pick up a telephone and listen to their conversations.

On the west side of town, Moody Gardens , at I-45 61st St exit (summer daily 10am9pm, winter MonThurs & Sun 10am6pm, Fri & Sat 10am9pm; $7.95 per attraction, $28.95 day pass to all attractions; tel 800.582.4673, www.moodygardens.com ), is an environmental research facility where you can happily while away a few hours. The complex is centered around three giant glass pyramids: the Rainforest Pyramid houses exotic plants, birds and fish from around the world; the Discovery Pyramid is a good-quality science museum with an IMAX cinema; and the impressive Aquarium Pyramid is one of the largest aquariums in the world. Also in the ever-growing complex are themed outdoor gardens, pleasant walking trails along the shore of scenic Offatt's Bayou , where you can take a cruise on a paddlewheeler, and Palm Beach, a popular spot for families where kids can play on a giant yellow submarine. It's worth visiting more than one attraction, especially as the box office (tel 409/744-4673 or 1-800/582-4673) offers an array of discounted combo tickets.

The downtown beaches of Seawall Boulevard are a constant reminder of Galveston's struggle simply to exist: murky, rocky and protected behind a ten-mile-long seawall from the ever-encroaching tides and the threat of further hurricanes. Stewart Beach Park , the most convenient beach for downtown, is geared toward family fun and gets very crowded; the wide R.A. Apfell Park , further east, is marginally quieter during the week, but has live music some weekends and a lively bar. Both of these beaches charge $5 per car.